What Is Extra Virgin Olive Oil?
Why It's Called Extra Virgin, How It's Made, and What Makes It Good
Jan 20, 2009
EVOO: the acronym has recently made its way into the Oxford American College Dictionary, thanks to TV chef Rachel Ray’s incessant usage of both the acronym and the oil. Celebrated for its deliciousness and touted for its health benefits, extra virgin olive oil occupies a spot in the hierarchy of oil far above more mundane varieties found in the pantry: canola, peanut, even sesame. It exudes Euro-chic. And that cachet comes at a premium price, as much as $15 to $25 for a half liter.
But, for the amateur cook, how much is too much to pay? What exactly does “extra virgin” mean? Everyone knows what virgin means, but extra virgin?
The Process of Making Olive Oil
The term "extra virgin" stems from the process, which dates back millennia:
- The olives, pits and all, are first ground in a mill into an oily mash.
- The mash is spread on screens and subjected to several hundred pounds of pressure, producing a mixture of oil and water.
- The water is decanted, and what remains is called “virgin”: it is unprocessed, unrefined, and unadulterated. If it has less than 1% acid and is judged to be of superior taste, color, and aroma, it can be called “extra virgin,” according to the International Olive Oil Council, based in Madrid, Spain. The words “cold pressed” or “first pressing” will sometimes appear on the bottle, as subsequent pressings of the same mash may include hot water.
While most household oils are harvested and processed mechanically, superior olive oils are still produced by hand, from the picking to the processing. Only green olives are used in olive oil, and only the best green olives (from Italy, Greece, Spain and, recently, California) will go into extra virgin oil. These factors, as well as the artsy designer bottles that many producers use to make their oil stand out on the supermarket shelf, all add to the price tag.
Are high-end olive oils worth the high-end price? Like wine, superior olive oils take on a little of the personality of the soil in which they are grown. They range from mild to fruity to peppery. Each oil exhibits its own taste, color, and aroma, which, also like wine, are influenced by the climate, the weather, the orientation of the particular hillside on which the fruit (yes, the olive is a fruit) is grown. A fine oil will add flavor and complexity to any recipe. Many EVOO fans insist that the good stuff is best consumed uncooked, in a salad dressing or on bread in the place of butter.
Selecting an Olive Oil
Unlike wine, olive oil does not age well. It exhibits its finest traits in the first two months of life. Its peak will last for about one year, and its lifespan will be officially over at two. So the buyer should read labels and look for dates. Color—how dark or light or green an oil is—is not always reflected in taste. Consequently, gourmet delis and small markets are often the best places to purchase expensive oils, as the shopper can sample before buying.
The big producers—the same four or five companies represented in most supermarkets—sell their extra virgin oil for $10 to $15 for a liter. These oils are generally very good, though not excellent. They offer a fairly affordable option for the cook who wants to put olive oil into recipes and on the table. While there have been several instances of this kind of oil not living up to its “extra virgin” billing, these reasonably priced oils are usually good and they represent an alternative to the premium designer oils. Just stick to the "extra virgin" label; any other names, like "pure" or "light," have been heavily processed and reflavored with a small amount of EVOO.
Recipe for a Dijon Vinaigrette Salad Dressing with EVOO
Here's a tasty, healthful, and inexpensive French-style dressing that is great with most courses. You'll need:
- 1 tsp red wine vinegar
- 2 tbsp creamy dijon mustard
- About 1/4 cup EVOO
- Fresh ground pepper and salt
- In a good-sized bowl, add the red wine vinegar to the creamy dijon mustard and whisk until emulsified.
- Slowly drizzle extra virgin olive oil into the mixture while whisking vigorously, making sure the oil stays incorporated.
- Sample the dressing until the taste of the oil is balanced with the taste of the mustard.
- Toss the dressing with romaine lettuce and carrot shavings.
- Add salt and pepper to the salad, not the dressing. Bon appetit!
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